Why visit Brunei.
Brunei is the genuinely off-the-beaten-path Borneo destination, most travelers passing through Sabah and Sarawak skip it entirely, which is precisely the reason to come. The country's tourism numbers are tiny: under 350,000 international visitors in a typical year, compared to millions for neighboring Sabah, and that means Kampong Ayer, the world's largest still-inhabited water village, is a working community rather than a staged attraction. You can hire a water taxi for $1 BND from the BSB jetty and 90 seconds later be standing on a creaking wooden walkway between fish stalls, schools, mosques, and houses where children play between the planks, three hours of wandering and you'll see almost no other tourists. The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, completed in 1958 with a gold-leaf dome and an artificial lagoon containing a replica royal barge, is one of the most photogenic mosques in Southeast Asia and is open to non-Muslims at specified hours (modest dress, abaya provided). The Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, larger, more recent (1992), with 29 gold domes, is even more lavish but less centrally located. The Royal Regalia Museum displays the Sultan's coronation chariot, ceremonial weapons, and gifts from world leaders in a gilded hall that documents one of the longest-serving monarchies on Earth (Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah has reigned since 1967). For a totally different rhythm, the Ulu Temburong National Park is reached by an hour-long longboat ride through narrow rainforest channels followed by a steep climb up a 60-meter aluminum canopy walkway that tops out above primary Borneo rainforest, gibbon calls, hornbills, and a continuous green carpet to the horizon. Add the wonderfully eccentric Empire Hotel (a royal-built mega-resort with seven swimming pools, a Jack Nicklaus golf course, and gold-leaf detailing throughout), some of the cleanest and emptiest beaches in Southeast Asia, near-zero crime, and a remarkable street food scene anchored by nasi katok ($1 rice with fried chicken), and you have a four-day visit that genuinely surprises everyone who makes it.